Welcome to the Warm Glass UK - Knowledge Base.
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- Warm Glass Team
We generally fire a full fuse to 804C - full details of firing schedules are accessed from the 'Help' section of the Warm Glass site. Hope this helps!
Glassline paper can be fused between glass layers to add interest to your work. There is a tipsheet on how to use it here: www.warm-glass.co.uk/images/pdfs/products/Glassline%20Paper%20Product%20Brochure.pdf
and you can look at some images of students' work using the paper on our 'Get Going with Glassline' course in our gallery here: www.warm-glass.co.uk/gallery-get-going-with-glassline-cms-121.html
I hope that helps!
Hello I am thinking of trying to make my own bails and fusing in between the glass. I have looked at the silver wire and there are two sizes, 0.7mm and 1.00mm.Can you let me know which would be better and it will not tarnish in the kiln? .also how to secure it straight before I fire.. Thank you for your help. Hazel
Both the 0.7mm and the 1mm can be used between glass and it really depends on what thickness will look best with you pieces. I prefer the 1mm.
All silver will tarnish a bit and this can be removed with silvo or vinegar. The silver we sell is 999 pure and therefore will tarnish less than sterling silver. Please be aware that silver will react with some glass types.
This section of the website contains more information:
I'm putting together a composite piece for a kitchen splashback. All the items have been constructed and now I'm fusing them.
The first piece has fused. It has come out of the kiln with this very strange effect. It looks like an inclusion below the green and on top of the clear. The green is rippled but I don't think it's an air bubble and so shows although the black is not breaking through. The clear is smooth but clearly showing as black.
The kiln cycle is standard with a maximum temperature of 804 and has been used a number of times before. I.e I didn't set it for this cycle.
The piece is glued however the glue was not positioned where the black is.
Do you have any ideas?
If the black looks silvery and flaky, inside a bubble, it is glue. The glue burns off and tracks to the middle of the glass. Glastac glue will reduce but not eliminate this happening, the best thing is to not use any glue or use glasstac sparingly and near the edge of the design.
It's out of our field really, it depends on your application, but you can fuse copper wire between sheets of glass which would be conductive. Otherwise I imagine that a foil cut on a digital die cutter. Best of luck.
Bullseye glass is as strong as most other glasses but is not toughened or heat resistant like Pyrex. Assuming that the glass has been annealed properly Bullseye glass can be used for placemats, plates, bowls and coasters without issue.
3mm Fibre is not suitable as a separator for fusing as it will stick to glass in certain circumstances. Fibre is used instead of a shelf by some people and when used in slumping will release, it can also be used in casting to form a barrier; generally opal glass will stick to fibre worse than transparent glass.
The specific preparations for separating glass from the shelf are Thinfire Paper and Bullseye shelf primer.
Bullseye tipsheet about fibre paper: www.warm-glass.co.uk/images/pdfs/Bullseye%20TipSheet_01.pdf
Bullseye thinfire paper: www.warm-glass.co.uk/thinfire-paper-p-2532.html
I hope this helps.
Our Top Tips:
? The blank should cover the outside diameter of the ring but not hang over the edge
? For drops under 10cm the optimum thickness of the blank is 6mm to 9mm
? For drops over 10cm the optimum thickness of the blank is 9mm to 12mm
? Fire the blank on a basic full fuse and anneal correctly for the thickness of the glass
? Use Bullseye separator on the dropout ring and also 1mm fibre, cut 3mm back from the ring edge
? The optimum top temperature is 650C to 700C depending on your kiln, glass thickness and how much you want to drop
? In plugin kilns remove the shelf for longer drops but remember to protect the base of the kiln with fibre paper
You do need to cool the glass rapidly to stop it dropping ? this is done when you can see the glass has dropped to the point you were hoping.
Enamels do need to dry before firing, or they will blister badly. Sifting a very thin layer (2 grains thick) of clear glass powder over the enamels can help achieve a smooth glossy finish and will also reduce bubbles if sifted between layers.