5 out of 5 stars Wednesday 23 September, 2015 By Robert Chalmers - See all my reviews
I've started using this Enamel Powder dry with a screen stencil. It produces very sharp lines, and deep blacks. Here's how I do it. No mess, no fuss, no wash up, no smelly chemicals.
1. Using the small screen & the stencil that comes with the Powder Printing Kit, I first tape the stencil to the underside of the screen using that very thin brown packing tape, so none of the powder gets through where I don't want it to.
2. I then set my glass up on the cutting board (Morton Portable Glass Shop plus the Morton Mini Cutting Surface), with cardboard blocks on each of the four sides so the glass doesn't move, then using guide marks I have made on the edges of the screen in pencil I position the screen exactly on the glass where I want it. I then move the yellow glass stops into place on the cutting platform so the printing frame is firmly in place, but not jammed. You need to be able to lift it out remember. You MUST not let the screen move when laying on the powder. If it does .... opps. Just start again.
3. Put the pot of Black ( or any colour you like ) on a piece of A4 paper to catch any accidental spills, and then using one of the flexible plastic rulers that come with the cutting platform, carefully "spoon" a quantity of powder onto your screen - starting on one side, and draw the powder back and forth over the screen until you are satisfied that the entire stencil has been covered. I use the end of the flexible plastic ruler because it's a small flat area and holds just the right amount of powder for each application, and is a soft plastic that doesn't damage the screen. Don't use too much powder at one time, just enough for a section. Repeat until covered nicely. Then "spin" excess powder back into the pot. If you have done it carefully, you will have no powder to put back, and no mess. Don't use a wide applicator, or squeegee as you will lose control of the powder. A soft plastic, narrow - maximum of about half an inch.. is good, plastic strip.
4. Finished? ... Carefully, in one motion, lift your screen clear of the glass, and you should have a nice crisp image on the glass surface. Put the screen on your piece of A4 paper for the moment. If you aren't happy with it, just tip the powder off the glass, tap it onto a piece of paper, and then back into the pot. Try again. If you are happy, then put the glass in the kiln on a slow Tac fuse to "fix" it. You can add other colours as you like after each tack fuse, if you want to.
The plastic stencils that are sold as part of the Powder printing kit, (Powder Printing Set) are just the right thickness to allow just about a half to one mm of powder to layer onto the glass. If you use screen printing screens, that is stencils that are made in the screen by either spread on resist, or capillary stencil film, then the process is much the same, just space your screen the same thickness as the plastic stencils above the glass so you get a nice clean deposit. DO NOT PRESS on the screen as you spread the powder.
I've put the entire tutorial with images onto my studio website so you can look at it there if you like. http://www.kookaburra-studio.co.uk/?p=272 I only use materials from Warm-Glass. Excellent quality and super fast delivery.
5 out of 5 stars Wednesday 05 March, 2014 By Kathy Mather - See all my reviews
Used with oil based mixing medium.
Pot will last forever. Lovely deep black, needs quite a thick coat if fusing.
Takes a while to dry but is worth it if screen printing or painting. Also works well if painted on as a single layer and scraped away to produce patterns.